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Q:
I’m building a home built aircraft and want to know what lights I need?
A: Legally you do not need any lights to fly from sunrise to sunset, however,
if you want to fly during the period known as “Civil Twilight” (1/2 hour before
sunrise & ½ hour after sunset), you will need the following.
(a) For an ultralight operating under
FAR 103; an anti collision strobe light that is visible for 3 stature miles.
(b) For an “N numbered aircraft”,
covered under FAR 91.209; lighted position lights and an anti collision
light system that meet other FAA regulations.
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Q: I currently have a
Kuntzleman Dual Magnum strobe system on my plane can I upgrade to the COMBO
heads?
A: Yes, the strobe driver will fire any of our
Magnum strobe heads. The LED position lights part of the Combo heads uses 12
volts of DC power and is not connected to the strobe driver box.
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Q: Do your lights meet
the FAA requirements?
A: Yes, the Magnum & Combo systems meet the requirements in FAR 23.1391,
1393, 1395, 1397, and 1401. The SC103 meet FAR103.
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Q: What electrical power
source do I need for your lights?
A: All of our systems can be powered by 12/14 volts DC. The SMART
STROBE drivers can also be powered by an AC/DC of 12 to 100 volts.
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Q: What is the “HOT BOX” and
how will it help my building process?
A: The Hot Box is a self-contained primary wiring system. It has
everything needed to connect your starter and lighting coil equipped engine
electrically with the rest of the aircraft. It will not only simplify the wiring
process, but will aid in trouble shooting down the road.
Troubleshooting Guide Back
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Double Dual Magnum 12vdc, Smart DDM Strobe and the
Single Magnum Smart Strobe systems.
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If the system is a new installation and doesn't work go over the
installation instructions to insure everything was done correctly.
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If the strobes were working and quit. The first thing to
check is be sure the driver box is receiving power at a good level, at least
12 volts. Remember, even if you are powering the Smart Strobe model from
your AC lighting coil it can be powered by battery for trouble shooting
purposes. When using a battery polarity has to be observed (RED is positive
and BLACK is negative).
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If you have a Dual system (two lights) and neither light
works plug one light in at a time and if one starts to work and one doesn't
there is a short between the red and black (hot to ground) wires on the
failed light.
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If only one light is working, swap the plugs at the driver
and if the failed light starts to work the problem is probably in the driver
and it should be returned to Kuntzleman Electronics.
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In step 4, if the light still doesn't work the problem is in
the plug, the wire out to that strobe head, the 3 butt splices at the head
or the head itself. All lights have been tested before packaging so if this
light has never worked and was not damaged in installation, check the
pins in the plug. Make sure they are pushed all the way in and locked. If
you installed the plugs, did you get good metal to metal connections at the
pin? In other words did not crimp the plastic wire coating into the pin.
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Continuity testing with an Ohm meter can be performed on each
wire from end to end. Pin #2 to pin #3 will read some resistance through the
trigger coil mounted in the head. No continuity will be measured through the
xenon gas tube (pins 1 to 2) there is no filament in the bulb. Be sure the
pins are all the way into the nylon plugs and locked in place.
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Voltage at the head can be checked between the RED pin #1 and
BLACK pin #2. BE VERY CAREFUL HIGH VOLTAGE. The voltage should be near 400
VDC.
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AFTER CHECKING items 2, 6, & 7 a small AM radio can be used
as follows. Turn on and tune between two stations. Hold the radio near the
strobe driver box. A clicking of the strobe trigger circuit should be heard.
If not, then trouble is in the driver box and it should be returned to
Kuntzleman Electronics for repair. If it is heard move the radio to near the
strobe head, that same clicking will be heard and the problem is the bulb
unit. New bulb units are available from Kuntzleman Electronics.
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If all else fails call Kuntzleman Electronics, Inc. @ 610 326
9068. Back
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Noise Problems
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Noise in Radio and/or Intercom
Our strobe driver units are designed with filtering and
internal shielding to keep radio interference to a minimum, however occasionally
noise will be heard over the radio or intercom. This noise is almost always
caused by the way the systems have been installed.
One must remember that noise
does not always come from the power that is being supplied to your equipment.
Especially if the radio has it's own power source (battery ) and the strobe is
powered by the aircraft battery. Installations vary greatly from aircraft to
aircraft. Do both systems share the same power source? Is there an external
antenna? How close is the antenna, radio, wires, etc. to the strobe driver box
and wiring? If both systems are not sharing the same power, then where is the
common thread? In most, if not all cases the problem is GROUNDING. The ground
path is very, very important. The strobe circuit draws high current through the
ground circuit. The radio, intercom, head set and mic circuits use that same
ground so it is important that there is NO voltage drop between where all these
grounds are connected. In other words lets say the strobe driver is getting
negative battery or ground from a bus near the battery that is also grounded to
the metal frame of the aircraft. The ground plane for the radio antenna is
connected to the aircraft frame further back near the tail and the radios are
grounded near the cockpit to a screw in the frame. This array of connections can
be a source of noise. The following list is intended to help in eliminating
noise.
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Power for the strobe system should be on the first fuse of the power bus. In
other words the closest fuse to the battery. It is also very helpful to run
BOTH the POWER and GROUND in a twisted pair all the way from the source to
the strobe driver. In other words don’t pick up ground for the strobe near
the driver and the hot on a single wire from another location.
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The strobe driver's metal case should be solidly connected with a ground
strap or 16 ga. wire to the aircraft ground system.
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The audio ground and aircraft ground should be commonly
connected only at ONE SINGLE POINT. Ground all the audio equipment; radio,
mic, antenna, headphones, intercom, etc. to an "audio ground bus" (16 Ga. or
larger wire). Then connect that bus at one end only to the aircraft central
grounding point, preferably near the point the battery is grounded.
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Do not run audio related wires next to power supply wires.
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Shielded wire is not normally necessary, however, if it is being used ground
that shield at only ONE end. Usually the end closest to the source.
NOTE: This list
has been derived from the fixes that have worked for others. If you find
something new please let us know and yours will be added to help someone else.
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